Author Archives: Micah Swet

Zombie Hunters 2 Character Posters

Hello everyone,

Last week we released Zombie Hunters 2. It’s a wild film and kind of hard to see each character clearly so I decided to bring each of our zany styles to attention in this week’s post.

I present to you:

The Posters

(in order of appearance in the big shot)

Annie 3

peter 2


Abby 5

Max 5


Josiah poster




I had a lot of fun making these posters (Photoshop CS6). Some of them were a little hard at the beginning because I couldn’t get an idea for what to do, but it all worked out in the end. 🙂

And that’s the way crazy is done.



Teaser for a little something that starts with Z…..

Hello everyone, Micah here.

I’m here to announce something very “special” we have been working on. We don’t want to give everything (or anything, really) away before the release date, so here is a little something to tease your brains. Mwahahaaa.


ZH teaser

Get ready to be blown away by the reinforcements (a.k.a. awesomeness) coming to youtube next week. 😀

And that’s the way imagination goes ~ Micah

How To: Build a Camera Dolly/Slider

Hello everyone! Since today is Monday, I had this bright idea to do a blogpost. :D. This week I’ll be showing you how to build a camera dolly/slider. I got the idea from this video.

The dolly/slider is nice because you can do a smooth rolling shot to the side to side, forward and back. In most cases when you try to do that by hand, it turns out shaky and doesn’t look good.

There will be 2 sections to build. #1 is the camera roller and #2 is the dolly track.

~Camera Roller~

Parts for roller.

4 ~ Rollerblade wheels.
4 ~ 3/4″ PVC plugs (1/4″ hole drilled through the ends).
4 ~ 1/4″ bolts, 2″ long (if your wheel bearing doesn’t have a spacer use 5/16″ instead).
4 ~ 1/4″ nuts (or 5/16″ nuts if the above bolt is also 5/16″).
4 ~ Lock Washers.
4 ~ 1/4″ Washers.
3 ~ 3/4″ PVC “T” joints.
2 ~ 3/4″ PVC pipe 2″ long.
1 ~ 2 1/2″ long bolt.
1 ~ Big washer.
1 ~ Quick connector (I used this).

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~Wheel section assembly~

 Get one each of the following: wheel, 2″ bolt, PVC plug, nut, locking washer.

Assemble it like the following pictures and tighten it down. Do the same for the last 3 remaining wheels.

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Note: You might need to grind the sides of the wheels so they can fit into the shelf railing so there is no risk of getting caught up on the sides.

~Main Frame assembly~

Get 1 “T” connector, the 2 1/2″ bolt, big washer and your choice of a connector.
Drill a hole in the bottom of the “T” and assemble like below.

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Now get the other two “T” connectors and the two 2″ PVC lengths.
Attach like in the picture below.


Then attach the wheel sections together.



Now, since that is finished, we’ll move on to the………..

~Dolly Track~

Note: Measure how wide the camera roller is and when you assemble the dolly, try to keep it that width. But since the roller is semi adjustable, you don’t have to be exact.

Parts for track.

Cutting board or some kind of thicker plastic.
4 ~ 1/4″ countersink screws 1 1/4″ long.
4 ~ 1/4″ nuts.
Magnetic tape or very thin strips of wood.
4 ~ 1″ PVC elbow joints.
2 ~ 1″ PVC pipe 3-4″ long.
Shelf rail (Enough for 2 ~ 35″ lengths). Something like this

Sorry, don’t have a picture of all the parts before assembly, oops. 😦

~Dolly Assembly~

Get two of the elbow joints and one 3-4″ pipe. Attach the elbows to the the pipe. Repeat for the other one.


Now get the shelf rail and attach the two end pieces on. I had to wrap tape around the ends of the rail so the PVC would fit tight.


Drill 4 evenly spaced holes in the middle of the rails (for the brace-plate). Countersink the holes so the screws don’t stick up.

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Cut the plastic board to the desired width and length and drill 4 holes that are in line with the holes on the rails.
Get the 4 screws and nuts, thread it through the rails and board and tighten down.
If you want, drill a hole in the middle of the bottom plate so you can attach it to a tripod.

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In order for the roller to run smoothly back and forth, you’ll need to put something down in the rails. I got 2 pieces of wood (1/8″ thick and width of the rails), fit the the wood into the rails.
I painted it black since black is awesome. But you can do any color, even pink. 😛

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I cut off the ends of the bolts so they aren’t so long.

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Here is a test video I did.

~Conclusion and thoughts~

I used two 48″ shelf rails but found they are too long and it gets unsteady when the dolly nears the end. That’s why I said to use two 35″ rails. It doesn’t HAVE to be 35″, I just feel like it would be a good middle ground.

Since the dolly can twist around, periodically you will have to set it on a flat surface and press down to flatten it.

I don’t feel the parts that are holding the quick connector are the best, so if you find a way that is better..thumbs up!

Hope you all enjoyed reading this post and as always, we’d love to hear you comments! ~ Micah Swet

And that’s the way ice is frozen.

How to: Build a Fig Rig

Greetings everybody!

My first post on this blog *happy dance*!

Today I’m going to show you how to build a Fig Rig. In case any of you are wondering, it has nothing to do with figs :P. The purpose of a Fig Rig is to help stabilize shots when filming so that if you’re running it isn’t so shaky.

Before you build the rig, you will need these parts:

3/4″ PVC pipe – Cut to :

5 ~ 6″ lengths
6 ~ 2.5″ lengths (only 4 pictured)
4 ~ 1.5″ lengths

3/4″ PVC connectors:

10 ~ 45 Degree Connectors
3 ~ “T” Connectors (only one pictured)
1 ~ “Cross” Connector

Misc. optional parts:

3/8 pipe insulation
Electrical or black tape
Quick release connector
Long bolt
Big Washer
Wing nut
PVC glue

First step is to assemble everything together. In Photoshop I color coded the parts in the 2 pictures. It might look confusing, but if you just concentrate on one color at a time it isn’t hard.

How to build a fig rig

How to build a fig rig

There is no particular order when you put it together. I just grabbed a piece and started the assembly!

The next step, the mounting system, is kind of tricky. I say it will be tricky because each person uses something different. Since this was my first time, it wasn’t easy putting it together because I was just fitting on random parts I had at my disposal. You can do the same or follow what I’m going to do in the next sentence.

Drill a hole in the bottom of the middle “T” connector and fit a long bolt through it. Slide a big washer on, then a small spacer, and last a wing nut; tighten it all down.

How to build a fig rig

Sort of almost done! 😉 Just a few more steps.

How to build a fig rig

Next step is to paint it. You can paint it any color or just leave it white. I picked black because it looks totally awesome. 😉

When the paint is dry, grab the pipe foam (I used this stuff) and cut it to the desired length. Then wrap electrical tape, or pretty much any kind of tape, and cover all the foam. I added the foam so my hands would be more comfortable while filming.

How to build a fig rig

And for the final step, screw on the quick release connector. I used this one because it was cheap and got pretty good reviews. There are others that might be better, but this one works fine for me.

How to build a fig rig

Voilà, it’s done!

How to build a fig rig

Here is a quick video test I put together. I shot some footage without the rig and then tried to re-create the same shots using the rig.

~Closing thoughts~

I’m really happy with how it turned out. I read online that I should glue everything together using the PVC glue but I decided not to because I might need to take it apart down the road. You can also cut the side pieces (where  the grips are) smaller so it isn’t so tall. The reason I made it that tall is so the small monitor we use on the DSLR would fit.

And that is the way a muffin is baked. 😀

As always, we love seeing comments down below, so post away!